The Coastal Track: Portreath to Hayle
Last week in Cornwall, we completed another section of the Coastal Track!
Having completed Newquay to Portreath, broken up into smaller sections, our options were Newquay to Porthcothan (10.3 miles), or Portreath to Hayle (11.7 miles). The starting points were pretty much equidistant from where we were staying- St Agnes- so we just had to pick one. We decided on the Portreath starting point as my very good friend and Cornwall native had said it was one of her favourite walks.
The weather was amazing- it was a hot sunny day with a slight breeze to keep us cool. Typical Jess and Jim left it til later in the day to begin the walk- we started at 3pm. Luckily the sun wasn't setting until around 10pm with these lovely long summer evenings.
I did do a little research first on the public transport situation. The further from Newquay it seems that the buses are less reliable, less direct, and more infrequent. From the online research, there seemed to be sites that stated there was a bus that went from St Ives north along the coast. Perfect! Only, when we double checked the sign in Portreath, it seems that this bus is a once-a-day occurrence during the summer months (if in winter, sorry- none at all!) and that one occurrence was going to be in about 2 hours from our departure. There was no way we were completing 11.7 miles in 2 hours. Even to Gwithian (about 2/3 of the way) was pushing it. After a bit more research, it seemed like the only way was a train from Hayle to Redruth, and a bus from Redruth back to the car in Portreath. Bit of a faff, but at least it was better than a taxi ride.
So we started off with some cakes from the little cafe, up the cliff path and basically along the plateau until Godrevy Point. These cliffs are rather beautiful, while also quite precarious! The coastal flora is wildflower and heather- in bloom and growing over the path at this time of year. Several coves allow you to gaze upon the turquoise water and imagine the ships trying to make land. Apparently many ships met their fate upon these cliffs which of course means that treasure tales are rife in the area. Probably enhanced by the fact that these coves are still so sheer and inaccessible. One spot- Hell's Mouth has seen many suicides. This is also the first spot to stop if you are after a refreshment. We decided to power on.
By this time, we were on the lookout for some miracle bus to pop out of nowhere. Jim was tired from 3 days of working on the garden furniture and surfing twice a day. I was keen to keep going, but was feeling a bit sorry for the poor boy. We thought we had spotted a shortcut across the Knavocks, but this meant following the road. We decided against that, so around we went to Godrevy Point where you can view the lighthouse on Godrevy Island and, more importantly, the seals coming ashore to bask in the sun! No ponies in sight though. Sad face.
From Godrevy Point, you can follow the long stretch of beach. We thought that was a rubbish idea as beach walking becomes tiresome. Instead, we followed the National Trust signs which directed us through the dunes. Worst decision ever. Dune walking is beach walking with hills. One plus though- we saw some tiny cygnets with their mum. Awww.
About 2/3 of the way through the dunes, and after trying to find a non existent bus in Gwithian, we decided that we were being bloody idiots and slid down to the beach proper. Where we were able to walk at twice the pace to the Hayle inlet. When we spotted the town of Hayle, we thought it was perhaps a good idea to take out the phone and check the train times. Google told us that there was a train at 7.28pm. It was 7.12pm. We knew it took an hour to complete the trip to Portreath and that the next train wasn't for another hour. Our poor weary legs started running. The dream of a refreshing cold beverage in Hayle vanished. However, we were able to quickly duck into a chippy who had just brought out a fresh pile of chips and were able to serve us hastily. Thanks chippy.
We made the train, confused about where to purchase a ticket (you do it on the train... so Cornwall). The journey back was not unpleasant and actually felt quite fast. I do wonder how we are going to manage to get back to the car when we tackle the track beyond St Ives!
All in all, it was a lovely walk and I am really liking that we are ticking off parts of the track. I don't think it was my favourite section so far- I quite enjoyed Newquay to Perranporth. This might be just because it was our first one... And there were several beer stops along the way. If we had more time, the cafe at Hell's Mouth and one at Godrevy would have probably supplied us with the beer goggles to make the journey slightly easier. Or if we had have skipped the dune walk!
